You will be afraid

So the sun rose on Mamfe on the 7th of June. We were rested and ready to see the mythical place which we had built up in our minds. When Chance arrived at Douala airport he got chatting to a guy about where he will be staying, when he told him Mamfe the mans ominous reply was 'You will be afraid'. The area is famous for witchcraft and many Cameroonians are weary of the place for that reason. Being a man of logic and reason, i don't believe in such superstitions. I just decided to keep my eyes peeled for giant holes in the road as they are very, very real.

Mr George, a UAC representative in Mamfe took us for a tour of the German bridges and other sites in the ex-German colony. The first bridge was a rather high delapadated suspension bridge spanning the Manu river (that's the second time i've crossed that river on a perilous bridge) I stood with a nervous grin on the high, shaky structure snapping away at the awesome scenary. We then went to a more solid reassuring bridge that crossed the same river and linked Cameroon to Nigeria. This was definately a German bridge as it spanned the river in an efficient linear concrete line. We went underneath it and witnessed the illegal oil trade between Cameroon and Nigeria. There were many shabby looking boats carrying all kinds of goods between the countries. Where i come from you might be a bit weary of customs officials frowning on such practices but not here, they all shouted 'Snap me' and we all documented the fascinating scene like a pack of papparazzi.

Mamfe had a lovely small town atmosphere, the people were friendly and always greeted us wherever we went. We were not afraid. The roads in the centre of town were paved unlike the bumpy dirt tracks we came in on. Strange, beautiful trees lined tidy, chaotic streets and the early German architecture stood out amongst a sea of brown and blue wooden shacks. Motorbikes tooted by us as we walked round taking it all in.

We walked to the market and all the girls bought cool, kitch dresses. Everybody was so welcoming to us and i probably took about 50 photos. Time for a beer.

The heritage inn where we were staying was run by the amiable Stella who cooked delicious meals for us and plied us with the freshest watermelons and pineapples. There was no power or water so we collected water from a little stream at the bottom of the garden and showered before bed.

Next day Sunday was a day of rest. We hung out in the hotel and Kait and I walked round the town. Loads of wee kids kept shouting 'white man, white man' I'm yet to hear them say white woman. It was a beautiful day. We took a tour of the UAC office and the Americans got briefed on what they will be doing during their stay.

There was chat about going to the club as they have a generator and we could have a boogie and shake our bums. Yes let's go clubbing in Mamfe. Splendid idea. The girls all put on their bargain gladrags that they bought yerterday at the market and we all headed into the inky-black darkness towards the club. We sat in the bar and comandeered half the place with our happy gang. Unfortunately the club was closed on Sundays so Hendrieke, Stella and I went to talk to the manager. He was a stange fat-tongued man who was not too understanding about our desire to dance. He wanted 150,000CFA to open the club, which was unrealistic. He said that would cover a barman, oil for the generatot and a DJ, i managed to barter him down to 120,000CFA and we get to keep the money from the door. No one was up for it and we reached a stalemate. Besides, we were happy to stay in the bar and create a makeshift dancefloor where we danced to Makossa all night long. There was a bit of hassle when we left as all these guys came up to the bus and started asking us to stay. I thought they were all desperate because all the white girls were leaving but i found out later that there was a conspiracy to rob us. I was too tipsy to be afraid.

The next morning, a little worse for wear, we were put to work. There was a rumour that we were going to go and plant flowers at the UAC sports complex, this couldn't have been further from the truth. We were actually shifting bricks up a hill to help build the sports complex. We formed an assembly line in the firey sun and begun the strenuous task. I have never experienced such wild, brutal heat and a few people bacame rapidly dehydrated and had to sit down. There was not enough water for us and their was a mad dash to get more. Hard labour and the stifling middday African sun do not go hand in hand. If i never have to carry another brick for the rest of my puff, i will be no less happy.

Later that day we all piled in the van and went to Orocks' friends house for a delicious meal. I ate like i'd never seen food before. It was great with the wild thunderstorm above us dining in candlelight.

We were supposed to leave tomorrow but the Mayor of Mamfe had seen us carting bricks and was inspired to invite us all to lunch at his house. We went the next day and their was a plentiful feast put on for us, it was all very tasty but we all avoided the porcupine soup. There were some formalities like speeches and backslapping but in all it was a fairly relaxed affair and a great one to end our time in Mamfe.

We spent our last night chatting and drinking beer at the hotel. It was a fun five days and for many reasons i would be sad to leave.