Scotland in Cameroon

So i was awoken yesterday at the rude hour of 5.30A.M to get the bus to go see the witch doctor, Alfred. We took a packed wee bus into the highlands outside Bamenda to a small village named Babongu. We were stopped on the way by police looking for hand-outs. He seen me in the front seat and greeted me 'Bonjour Monsieur le blanc', funny guy, there's yer money pal, lets go.

We drove for about an hour through the most amazing landscape. There were high, jaggy volcanic mountains that seemed out of place amongst the vast, flat planes. I watched the sun climb in the sky as we climbed up picturesque hills and valleys. It reminded me of Scotland with the green mountains, the only things that were different were the trees and the climate.

Our old bus chugged up the bumpy road into Babongu and from there it would be a four hour hike into the mountains to a village called Oku - the residence of the witch doctor, Alfred.

As we got out the bus the old character that was the driver tried to charge 1500CFA per person despite the fact that Ines and her mum always pay 1300CFA, we eventually got him to play fair and drop the white man tax, which he did grudgingly.

Ines, her mother, her sister Emily and me started strolling through Babongu. They said the town was known for the wickedness of its inhabitants so i just smiled and waved at the faces consumed with fixed, fascinated stares at this Scottish white man who had decided to wander into town. It felt like everyone was staring at me, because they were. I have kind of gotten used to people staring at me in Africa, white men are a minority here and to see one is very rare unless you're in a big city. People are usually like 'Oh there's a white man', but here people were like 'HOLY MOTHER OF JESUS, LOOK THERE'S A BLOODY WHITE MAN!!!' It was a pretty strange feeling.

We began the hike up the mountain to Oku. It was a beautiful day and thanks to the altitude, not too hot. We climbed through the most awesome, picturesque scenery, it was the highlands of Scotland with mosquitoes. For a few moments i forgot myself and i was glad to be home. The ascent was pretty tough but we stopped regularly and i dipped my face in a stream from a waterfall that fell from high up above us. We ate delicious sardine sandwiches and some avocado to keep us going. We climbed on.

After about four hours we reached the tiny village of Oku high in the mountains of Cameroon. News quickly spread that there was a white man in town and people peered and peeped from windows and kids stopped and stared with fixed expressions of wonder as i passed. A wee baby started crying when i looked at her, i was probably the first white person she had ever seen and it was clearly a traumatic experience for her. It all kind of made me feel uneasy to tell you the truth, but we were in a secluded village in the heart of Africa, it's probably not an every day occurrance to see a white man cut into town.

We reached Alfred's traditional mud hut just before it started raining. It was made from a warm deep kind of Martian red earth and there was a steep thatched roof perched on top. He wasn't in when we arrived but he had left the door open, apparently he knew we were coming. it was so unbelievably peaceful and the only sounds around were the tree frogs. Then we heard a rustle in the distance as Alfred bounded through the bush. He seemed like an amiable chap with a funny, infectious laugh and the most piercing dark eyes that i have ever looked into. I asked if there was any beer up here and amazingly there was!! I bought everyone a beer and as i sat to drink i was amazed by humanity and there strong desire for the yeast beast that they would cart it up a bloody mountain. Good on them. It tasted lovely.

We relaxed and Ines and her family caught up with with Alfred. He only spoke Pidgin so i only understood a little. But they told me that two years ago he told Ines that she would bring a white man to his house. Here i was. When he was talking i'd look over and he was just staring at me in the most intense manner. I wondered if he was trying to read my mind.

I tried to have a sleep when food was being prepared and a first happened to me in Cameroon, i was cold!! yes my teeth were chattering and my lips were turning blue and it was amazing. It really was like Scotland in Cameroon, instead of Edinburgh we called the place Okuburgh.

After we ate it was time for Alfred to tell me the future. I asked some personal questions and i also asked about some of you guys. So if you're skeptical like me, please take it with a pinch of salt.

Tomorrow i see the future......